surf art

They’re Not Laughing With Us

Remember last week when, for 25 minutes, America listened and believed a sexual assault victim?  And then the accuser got his say and started crying and shouting at us and everyone was like, “Gee, okay, if you’re that upset about it she must be lying.” ? Me too. The thing about Dr.Ford’s testimony that was […]

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Bride of Frankenstein

Two weeks before my wedding day  I went surfing at Montara Beach.  I came up under my board on my first wave and sliced my forehead open with my surfboard’s fin.   It didn’t feel bad but blood began pouring into my eyes.  I climbed back up the sandy path in between the cliffs and I […]

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They Walk Among Us

A few years ago an historically huge swell hit the Bay Area.  It was too massive for us to surf anywhere but Britt and I wanted to witness it.  We drove along the coast oohing and aahing as giant mountains of water collapsed and rolled over on themselves, exploding into the shallower water inside.  Highway […]

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