surf stories

Radical Feminist

Definition of Feminism (noun):  The advocacy of women’s rights on the basis of the equality of the sexes.  Political, economic and social equality of the sexes.  For some reason some men and women don’t like the word feminism or feminist.  Predictably, the word has been weaponized by society so a larger block of the population […]

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Know Your Limits

On New Year’s Day, my husband Britt and I drove our dogs out to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach.  We parked next to a guy that was about to go surf the jumbly, stormy waves.  Out of the back of his truck he pulled out an orange soft top board.  Britt and I exchanged eye rolls.  […]

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Bride of Frankenstein

Two weeks before my wedding day  I went surfing at Montara Beach.  I came up under my board on my first wave and sliced my forehead open with my surfboard’s fin.   It didn’t feel bad but blood began pouring into my eyes.  I climbed back up the sandy path in between the cliffs and I […]

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They Walk Among Us

A few years ago an historically huge swell hit the Bay Area.  It was too massive for us to surf anywhere but Britt and I wanted to witness it.  We drove along the coast oohing and aahing as giant mountains of water collapsed and rolled over on themselves, exploding into the shallower water inside.  Highway […]

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So Jelly

Last week there was a break in the incessant wind and fog of spring on the coast.  The sun came out and the surf calmed down at my favorite beach.  It was a Tuesday so the beach was empty.  The dogs and I were the only ones that saw the big grey whale surface just […]

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