surf zine

Know Your Limits

On New Year’s Day, my husband Britt and I drove our dogs out to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach.  We parked next to a guy that was about to go surf the jumbly, stormy waves.  Out of the back of his truck he pulled out an orange soft top board.  Britt and I exchanged eye rolls.  […]

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Bride of Frankenstein

Two weeks before my wedding day  I went surfing at Montara Beach.  I came up under my board on my first wave and sliced my forehead open with my surfboard’s fin.   It didn’t feel bad but blood began pouring into my eyes.  I climbed back up the sandy path in between the cliffs and I […]

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They Walk Among Us

A few years ago an historically huge swell hit the Bay Area.  It was too massive for us to surf anywhere but Britt and I wanted to witness it.  We drove along the coast oohing and aahing as giant mountains of water collapsed and rolled over on themselves, exploding into the shallower water inside.  Highway […]

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So Jelly

Last week there was a break in the incessant wind and fog of spring on the coast.  The sun came out and the surf calmed down at my favorite beach.  It was a Tuesday so the beach was empty.  The dogs and I were the only ones that saw the big grey whale surface just […]

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The Swarm

Britt and I were enjoying one of the last warm days of fall, sitting in the water at Ocean Beach, waiting for a wave, when we saw it.  At first we thought it was a rogue local storm raining down in the water south of us.   But it was moving and reshaping itself unlike any […]

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