Surfing for the Resistance
The night President Pussgrab McGrifter was voted into office I threw up my chicken sandwich and went for a long, panic stricken walk. I cried for days and then became pissed off and outraged and wandered around talking to my TV and Twitter feed. Then my outrage evolved into purpose and inspiration. The rage I had been carrying since the election burned out all the insecurity, shyness, timidity, baby talking, eyelash batting self out of my soul. It was gone. In its place is a hardened, focused, unbending, steely core.
The most surprising expression of my new self is that I’ve started surfing with more purpose and courage than I’ve ever experienced, especially at Ocean Beach.* It’s like I’ve had an awakening. Any uncertainty or fear –almost to a phobic level– I’ve had of Ocean Beach when it’s big is now gone. It’s like my subconscious has turned off the switch in my brain that held me hostage to my fears.
On the first big day of the season I pulled up on the cliff above Ocean Beach and tried to shake off my nerves. Far outside, the waves were clean and grinding, bigger than I would normally consider. Men that were stronger than me were checking it and driving off. But then something happened as I let my dogs out to play. I became a calm and fearless machine. I just thought of that fucking orange guy and his fucking robot model wife and I knew that I had changed. I felt nothing, no fear, no excitement, just resolve. It finally dawned on me that no government, elected official, public figure or president of the United States is going to be the one to help me or any other woman be considered equal to other humans that happen to be born with weiners. Each of us will just need to do it ourselves. So I pulled my wetsuit on, did the long paddle out and scored three of the biggest waves of my life.
Now, when I paddle out by myself, in waves too big for some guys, I hope that men can see that women are brave and strong. When I look over the edge of a big wave and then drop into it calmly and competently I hope they can see that women are capable. When I wipe out and eat shit, I hope they can see that women are human and not so fragile. And through all the political noise and nonsense, I hope men can remember me and other women surfing with them as equals. Because we need you guys… now more than ever.
*San Francisco’s Ocean Beach is infamous for its dangerous currents, heavy, tricky waves, cold water and long, challenging paddle out.